Pretty Good Bagels

Dissolve sugar in warm water. Add yeast, stir to dissolve. Stir flour and salt in a stand mixer bowl. Add yeast mixture and honey. Stir with dough hook at lowest setting until incorporated, then increase speed one notch. Knead for about 10 minutes. Check periodically: if too sticky, add more flour one tablespoon at a time. (Dough should not stick to the bowl.)

Form dough into a ball and place in a lightly greased bowl. Turn to coat, and cover with plastic wrap or damp dish towel. Let rise until doubled in bulk, about an hour. Turn dough out onto a lightly-floured surface, and knead by hand for 3 minutes.

Divide the dough evenly into 6 parts. Roll each piece into a smooth sphere. Press a finger through the center of each dough ball, and stretch into a ring. Place bagels on a baking sheet, cover with a damp towel, and allow to rest for 20 to 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 425° F, setting rack near center. Fill a large pot with about 4 inches of water. Add baking soda, salt, and sugar. Bring to a simmer. A few at a time, gently drop bagels into the solution, top side down. Poach for 1½ minutes. Flip and poach another 1½ minutes. Return to baking sheet. Optional: Whisk 1 egg with 2 tablespoons of water, brush on bagels, and add toppings: minced onion or garlic, poppy seeds, sesame seeds, etc.

Bake for 18 to 20 minutes at 425° F until deep golden brown. Cool.

Onion bagels: Finely mince 1 medium onion (about 1 to 1¼ cups). Sauté onion in a tablespoon of oil until transluscent. Set aside about 3 tablespoons. Continue to sauté remaining onion until browned. Add browned onion to dough during first kneading. (More flour may be required.) After poaching bagels, top with reserved minced onion before baking.