Crusty Sandwich Rolls

For best flavor, half the dough does an overnight slow rise. However, the rolls can be made in one day by skipping the starter step and adding its ingredients to the main dough.

Dissolve the yeast in water in the bowl of a stand mixer. Add the flour, and knead with dough hook until smooth. Place the dough in a lightly oiled bowl, turn to coat, then cover and let stand at room temperature for about 3 hours. Chill overnight. Allow dough to stand at room temperature at least 1 hour before proceeding.

Dissolve sugar and yeast in the water. Stir together the flour and salt. Cut the starter into egg-size pieces and add it to the flour. Add the yeast slurry and stir with the dough hook until dough forms. Add the olive oil and knead for about 10 minutes until smooth and elastic. Place the dough in a lightly greased bowl, turning once to coat. Cover and let rise until doubled in volume, about 2 hours.

Turn dough out onto a lightly-floured surface. Knead for 2 or 3 minutes. Divide into 12 parts. Form each into a ball, slightly-flattened. Arrange rolls on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Spray a sheet of plastic wrap with cooking spray, and cover the rolls loosely (spray-side down). Allow to rise until nearly doubled, about 1 hour.

Preheat the oven to 450° F. Place a metal baking pan on the lower rack of the oven for use as a steam pan, and set the upper rack to the middle of the oven. Beat an egg with a tablespoon of water and brush on rolls. Slash tops with a sharp knife. Optional: sprinkle with sesame or poppy seeds.

When oven is preheated, transfer the rolls to the upper rack, and pour 1 cup of hot water into the steam pan. Bake 14–18 minutes until the tops are a deep golden brown. Cool on a wire rack.