Bret’s Pizza Sauce

I started out trying to re-create the pizza sauce I remember from growing up near Buffalo, NY. I remember the sauce being less salty, more bright and tangy (but not spicy hot). I’ve since made enhancements for my own tastes, so even though it makes this ex-western New Yorker happy, you probably won’t find this sauce on a slice on the streets of NYC. The challenge is that we can’t know the balance of the sauce while still in the pot: the proof is in the finished pizza, once the sauce is applied to the dough, topped with cheese, and baked.

To cook or not to cook: some New York sauces are uncooked, but I find a straight tomato purée to be too thin. I also think the seasonings marry better with a little heat. So then the goal is to reduce moisture and concentrate flavors without over-cooking, and we’ll want to maximize the surface area by using a large pot or wide deep-sided skillet.

Process tomatoes and juice through blender or food processor until puréed. (Strain seeds for smoother texture, if you like.) Grate garlic, crush fennel and carraway, and measure out the dry herbs.

Heat the butter and olive oil gently until the butter is just melted, but not sizzling. Add the garlic and sauté briefly (15 seconds or so). Add the dry herbs and spices and stir a few seconds more until throughly moistened.

Add tomato purée, brown sugar, bay leaves, and a pinch of salt. Bring to a simmer, then reduce heat to lowest setting (bubbles should barely break the surface). Cook uncovered for about 45 minutes, stirring occasionally. Adjust seasoning to taste, though we should err on the side of slightly under-salted. Remove bay leaves.

Allow to cool. For best flavor, refrigerate overnight. Allow sauce to come to room temperature before spreading on pizza to avoid gummy dough texture. Use within 2 weeks or freeze.

Makes enough for at least three 16‑inch pizzas, or 2 pizzas with some extra sauce to dip your crusts in.