Bret’s Pizza Sauce

I started out trying to re-create the pizza sauce I remember from growing up near Buffalo, NY. It was less salty, more bright and tangy, but not spicy hot. I’ve made adjustments for my own taste now, and while it makes this ex-western New Yorker happy, you probably won’t find this sauce on a slice on the streets of NYC. There’s a challenge in that we can’t know the balance of the sauce while still in the pot: the proof is in the finished pizza, once the sauce is applied to the dough, topped with cheese, and baked.

To cook or not to cook: some New York sauces are uncooked, but I find a raw tomato purée to be too thin. I prefer the brightness of minimally-processed tomatoes, but I also think the seasonings marry better with a little heat. Our goal, then, is to reduce moisture and concentrate flavors without over-cooking, so we’ll want to maximize the surface area by using a large pot or wide, deep-sided skillet.

Process tomatoes and juice through blender or food processor until puréed. Grate garlic, crush fennel and carraway, and measure out the dry herbs before starting the cooking.

Heat the butter and olive oil gently until the butter is just melted, but not sizzling. Add the garlic and sauté briefly (15 seconds or so). Add the dry herbs and spices and stir a few seconds more until thoroughly moistened.

Add tomato purée, brown sugar, bay leaves, and a pinch of salt. Bring to a simmer, then reduce heat to lowest setting (bubbles should barely break the surface). Cook uncovered for about 45 minutes, stirring occasionally. Adjust seasoning to taste, though we should err on the side of slightly under-salted. Remove bay leaves.

Allow to cool. For best flavor, refrigerate overnight. Allow sauce to come to room temperature before spreading on pizza to avoid gummy dough texture. Use within 2 weeks or freeze.

Makes enough for at least three 16‑inch pizzas, or 2 pizzas with some extra sauce to dip your crusts in.